Day 22 Wednesday 18th September
Leaving the rolling plains of the Serengeti to the Ngorongoro crater
Mystical Beauty Beyond Comprehension Revealed
After a 3 hour drive through thousands of irregular potholes we felt as though we were driving across the moon rather than heading eastwards towards our next destination. As we climbed the winding roads to the edge of the crater the temperature dropped and the vegetation became more sparse and irregular. At the checkpoint before entering the crater we were able to observe a Masaai village perched on the inner slopes. As we descended into the crater we tested the power of our 4 wheel drive vehicle on the loosely powdered road. We gazed down from the outer rim of the crater towards the central lake and surrounding dense undergrowth. The wildlife became more prolific closer to the water's edge and we were able to observe buffalo, ostrich, wildebeest and zebra. As we prepared for the drive out of the crater the light changed to the most beautiful evening hue and the Lake glistened in timeless elegance. The ascent out of the crater was certainly the hardest ascent for our vehicle so far.

Day 23 Thursday 19th September
Awaking in Mto wa Mbu - to Arusha
Rested, Refreshed and Ready
After the pounding of 8 hours on potholed roads we awoke to the relative calm at the 'Twigga (Meaning Giraffe) Camp-site' to prepare and plan for the long road journeys ahead in Tanzania. We had just passed the half way point for our adventure and this was a time for us to look back on the events of the last 20 days and to look forward to the 20 unknown days ahead. As we chatted it became clear that each member of the team had absorbed and learned different lessons from our experiences so far. The days of planning seemed many moons ago and we were starting to feel that we had become more in tune with the people and places of East Africa. It was already apparent that not only had we changed country but that the people of Tanzania offered new aspects of generosity and experience. Despite many many days in the vehicle just observing the landscape and terrain as it flowed like a neverending picture, we welcomed every opportunity to make contact with local peoples.

Day 24 Friday 20th September
A day for organization in the large town of Arusha.
Bright Lights - Big City
We awoke at the Masaai campsite in Arusha for the two day stop at the first large city in Tanzania. Arusha appeared to us to be a bustling metropolis compared to the tiny villages we had passed on our journey so far. The reality however after skirting many side streets and little markets was that Arusha was a small town, but an important staging post for many locals to sell their wares and organise many business transactions. The campsite was owned by 'Mike' who originated from Scotland and had developed the campsite and tour company from scratch since 1993. He and his wife had become friends with the local people on the surrounding slopes of Kilimanjaro; from this they had established an NGO and a charity to raise money and support for local children with disabilities. Part of their work included showing videos on conservation, working with the environment and disability rights. We were able to head to town and visit stores for provisions, a major hotel for the access to the internet and spend an evening relaxing in the open air T.V room, bar and restaurant (television had been almost non-existent at this stage and we were all interested to learn more of the outside world especially events unfolding in the Middle East)

Day 25 Saturday 21st September
Visit to the Selian Lutheran Hospital in Arusha, the 3rd IMPACT project
Amazing People Performing Amazing Work
We had hoped to visit all three of the IMPACT projects currently active in East Africa and after many hours of e-mails and phone calls we were allowed to visit the Selian Lutheran Hospital on the outskirts of Arusha. We departed early following the directions from the owner of the Masaai campsite and after 20 Kilometres we turned off north through local villages in the foothills of Mt Meru to the secluded location of the hospital. After introductions we were able to meet with a senior administrator who was responsible for the hospital administration tasks as well as medical duties; it seemed apparent that the need to be multi skilled was indeed a valuable asset. We were able to learn more of the work with their clinic in Central Arusha and also at the hospital which receives patients from throughout Tanzania who have heard of their treatment of Fistula for the young women via the radio. Whilst we were at the hospital the news came through that a Senior Doctor had been injured at a local game park and the weekend staff were mobilized into immediate response. Luckily the injuries were considered minor and we left the hospital feeling relieved that we had not impeded their work during these busy times. On the drive from the hospital to Moshi late in the afternoon we were able to see Mount Kilimanjaro, the Roof of Africa, for the first time and as the light diminished we stopped by the roadside to gaze at this snow covered mountain that stood dominating the horizon.

Day 26 Sunday 22nd September
Driving day Moshi - Dar Es Salaam
Roads… Pot holes… Roads and More Road
Our earliest start to date for the long drive into Tanzania. We were scheduled to meet Sofia, our representative in Dar Es Salaam, who had helped to arrange our accommodation and itinerary. We were fortunate to be travelling on a Sunday as the road was often full with transport lorries and deliveries heading into Africa from this port on the Indian Ocean. The midday heat shone down onto our dark coloured vehicle which sorely lacking any air conditioning since the 2nd week and we all suffered from being confined to a small space and were feeling irritable. Our vehicle appeared to be shrinking as we passed hour by hour on our journey through Tanzania, the same vehicle which had seemed so large when we attended training in Birmingham and it was buffeted by increasing winds every time we passed the diesel fumed double carriage vehicles. When we finally arrived in Dar Es Salaam we were escorted to our accommodation for the next two nights. There was a significant increase in temperature as we journeyed south and we welcomed our first experience of air-conditioned rooms during our stay in the Econo-lodge, home to possibly the smallest lift in the country. Throughout the day and evening we heard the bells of the 'call to prayer' echoing through a town of small street and tall buildings as we navigated our way in an unfamiliar city.

Day 27 Monday 23rd September
A day for the paper work/admin in the centre of Dar es Salaam
Banking, Business, Bureaucracy
After Sunday's long drive we awoke sometime after the call for prayer ready to enter this bustling port. On the agenda for a scorching Tanzanian day was money changing, banking and internet. As we searched for the elusive Zambian currency we were surrounded by money changers and money lenders eager to secure our business. After declining we went in search of official offices; little did we know that none of the bureaux de change would hold 'kwatcha', the currency we would need when entering Zambia in a few days.
After wheeling our way around many side streets we were able to find the international district - home of the embassies, large banks and upmarket hotels, here we could draw small multiples of funds to prepare us for the days ahead. Throughout the day we were reminded of the strict religious faith prevalent in very Eastern Africa by the call to prayer and the multitude of mosques and temples. There was no shortage of eateries and we were able to sample some of the delicacies (hopefully) caught in the neighbouring Indian Ocean.

Day 28 Tuesday 24th September
Travel Dar to Iringa
Caught Short
We departed early from the Econo-lodge after once again struggling with the miniscule lift. We were prepared for the long day's drive and set out with full water provisions and food, however as the heat increased we soon wished that the temperature had remained the same as the cooler regions of Kenya. After several hours on the road we entered the Mikumi National park and drove 70 kilometres through the very dry savannah towards Iringa. After leaving the National Park and in search of sustenance we pulled in to a local restaurant and internet café, allured by the sign showing food and a picture of a computer… food we did find, however we soon learnt that there were no computers or even telephone connection. Our day's journey was planned with the hope of reaching Kisolanza, a well known stopping point breaking the journey to Mbeya. Unfortunately as time ran away from us we found ourselves consulting the travel guides for a short stop destination. As the sun set we pulled into the busy mountainside town of Iringa and were able to find three hostels which provided accommodation. One we declined due to the amount of stairs and the second was declined as not able to provide food or running water thus making our final decision simple. We arranged our booking at the Ismaila Hotel and unpacked our packs and settled down to eat after a long day in the vehicle. As we ate in the open air dining area, the television in the background playing what we assumed to be the Tanzanian equivalent of MTV, our thoughts were of Kisolanza and wondering what we had missed.